bin in Kayseri angekommen, nach 6h Bus - reine Busfahrt war dann doch deutlich schneller als die Bus-Zug-Kombination ueber Adana. Leider war auch im Bus Ramazan: keine Kekse, und die Leute haben noch nicht mal Wasser getrunken.
Hab ein Zimmer gefunden im selben Hotel wie letztes Mal, und der Rezeptionist freute sich dann gleich dass er wieder deutsch ueben darf. Der erste Mensch seit 4 Wochen, der mit mir deutsch spricht....
Trotz Ramazan-Restaurant-Schliessungen hab ich dann auch noch ein Auberginen-Essen gefunden, somit ist der Abend gerettet.
Wednesday 12/09: Gaziantep
Thursday 13/09: Gaziantep
Friday 14/09: Gaziantep
Saturday 15/09: Gaziantep-Adana(bus 3h), Adana-Kayseri (train 16h30, 6h,arrival around midnight)
Sunday 16/09: Kayseri
Monday 17/09: Kayseri-Konya (bus 4h)
Tuesday 18/09: Konya
Wednesday 19/09: Konya, and then there should be night train to Istanbul (or already on Tuesday)
Thursday 20/09 Istanbul
Friday 21/09 Istanbul, at 22h00 train to Zagreb
Sunday 23/09 arrıval ın Zagreb
Monday 24/09 Zagreb
Tuesday evening 25/09 Zagreb-Ljubljana (4hrs)
Wednesday 26/09 Ljubljana
Thursday 27/09 Ljubljana-Salzburg (arrival evening)
As I am supposed to be in Salzburg only on Friday, there is one day left to add somewhere...
I am in Gaziantep now and there is no need for headscarfes here any more :-) So today is the first 'free' day.
I can't tell anything about the cıty because I arrived this morning with the night bus from Bitlis (two hours late) and I was so tired that I just went to a hotel and slept. But I will have at least two days here so enough time to see everything. I just wanted to buy a train ticket but the man convinces me that it would be better to take a bus to Adana (3hrs, no night bus...) and take a train there. The problem is that I only can buy the ticket in Adana. So maybe, again another 'no free seat'. But the man said, it is a long train and no problems with seats....
So, nun den Kommentar aus Bitlis doch noch an die richtige Stelle kopiert...:
da mal wieder das Login nicht klappt wegen der nicht erlaubten Cookies und hier niemand weiss, wie man sie erlaubt, nur ein kurzer Kommentar. War nicht so einfach, in das Kurdendorf zu gelangen, das ist ueber ne Stunde weg von Bitlis. Und selbst das Dorf, bzw Kleinstatd, die man dann erreicht, war nicht das Ziel, sondern dann nochmal 20 min in die Pampa fahren und dann stehen da so ca 30 Haeuser. Sehr idyllisch gelegen, keiner hat dort ein Auto, sehr gute Luft...Ich hab dann Unmengen Verwandte kennen gelernt, neben den vorhandenen sieben Kindern. Und lauter frische Tomaten gegessen und Weintrauben. Der Mangel an Autos war dann gestern abend ziemlich tragisch, wenn ich es recht verstanden habe, ist irgendwo ein Kind runtergefallen, ich befuerchte mal, dabei toetlich verunglueckt, da die Leute im Dorf dann alle sehr geschockt waren. Und da kein Auto da war, haben sie das Kind den Weg zum Hauptdort hochgetragen. 20 min Auto, da waren sie zu Fuss sicher ne Stunde unterwegs. HNun bin ich zurueck in Bitlis, und um 21 Uhr geht mein Bus nach Antep, mit einer Ankunft zu grausam frueher Morgenzeit. Eigentlich waere es wegemaessig sinnvoller, erst nach Urfa zu fahren, dann nach Antep, aber das habe ich erst nach dem Ticketkauf bemerkt...Auch egal, vielleicht faellt dann Urfa eben doch wieder weg. Und wenn ich dort morgen frueh einfach aussteige (wir fahren mitten durch...) kaem ich gegen 4 Uhr morgens an und das ist sehr unguenstig zum Unterkunft suchen.
Viele Gruesse, Anja
As I already made the sights-seeing of Van Castle etc when I was here last time, this morning, I took my time to have one of the delicious Van breakfasts. They have fresh cheese, mıxed with some herbs, and fresh honey from the surroundings, and also some kind of butter. Everythıng from here, no import, and very fresh. In Van, there are really hardly any European tourists and I cannot undestand why, the landscape around Van with lake Van and all the area between Van and the Iranian boarder is just great, there have been volcanoes and it looks like a mix of maybe Ireland, Iceland and Iran because here it is no desert like ın Iran but a littlebit green everywhere. I think it is a great place for people who like horse riding or also just for hiking. And even if there are no hotels in the small villages, they have enough space in their family houses and I am sure you will always find a nice place to sleep. This time, no hiking for me, but as it is not so difficult to come here I am sure I come back for this one day.
The Internetcafe-man just brought me some tea :-) They don't have this tea-culture in Iran (even if the travel guide always talks about tea, but Iranians confırmed me that it is not like in Turkey where tea is just everywhere at all moments of the day - one tea, forty years of friendship).
I look in my Turkish guidebook today. I am not sure if it is possible with the bus connections, but if yes, I might go to some cities in South-Eastern Anatolia before going to Kayseri. I thought about going from Bitlis to Urfa and then to Antep and then to Kayseri via Malatya. Maybe also a little stop in Batman after Bitlis. Batman is a little town at the Tigris river. And it has such a nice name :-)
Today a made a no-headscarf-morning but I think when I take the bus to Bitlis, headscarf will be with me again ;-)
..even if eastern Turkey is not exactly Europe, after Iran, it just feels like Europe, with again smiling people on the streets, no black woman (headscarfs are quite usual here, but coloured).
The border crossing was funny, the Iranians had no interest in me, the offıcer (a woman) watched my passport and calculate the date between entry and exıt and understood that my visa was not long enough, and several times I told her 'Esfahan visa' because just by turning the page of the passport, she would see my vısa extension. But she did not listen to me and called a colleague, who turned the page, and then it was ok, and no luggage control on the Iranıian side (so the watermelon seeds stay with me :-) ). The Turkish wanted to make a luggage control with my backpack, but I watched the young offıcer a littlebit like 'I don't understand why I should let control my luggage'. Another officer noticed it, asked my natıonality and the 'German' just was enough to let him tell his younger colleague that it is not necessary to open my luggage. Then maybe 10 minutes waıt at the Turkish police control (it was lunch break...) and again no problems, and I was back in Turkey.
The minibus to the next Turkish cıty had to stop and soldiers controled all passports and luggage of the Iranıan man being in this bus with me, but they didn't seem to be interested in me at all. No passport, no luggage check.
In the lıttle Turkish border town I had to wait for a bus to Van, and the bus dıdn't fill up.... but finally the driver decided just to start the travel and not to wait for other passengers. Until departure time, they gave me lots of tea and the Kurdısh young boys had fun with me, because I bought some delıcıous bred from one and I think I have hım the double price, so all the boys wanted to sell somethıng for the double prıce. Most of them sell cıgarettes so I was happy, it is easy to say 'I don't smoke' and they understood this. And when there were too many of them, the bus company told them to go away and only those who dıd not ask all the time if I want to give money were allowed to stay and I took their photos what they really like a lot out there in this area where very seldom a european traveller will wait for a bus. And I gave them the cookies I collected in teh Iranian buses. The boys were really hungry. I asked one of them, he has 5 brothers and sısters. And a man from the bus company even told somtehıng about 10 brothers and sisters.
My hotel ın Van seems ok and one of the hotel men helped me and phoned the famıly ın Bıtlıs for me. I met them when I was last time in Van and promised them to visit them on my way back. They are at home, so I go there tomorrow ( and meet their seven children!!!) and probably you get news again only from Kayseri, ın around 3 or 4 days, because the little village next to Bitlis will certainly not have Internet. It is not exactly Europe here...
Best wishes to you all from Turkey,
after a good night in the train (this time no children, no big-luggage-people, only two old women) and even an all-inclusive-train-dinner (kebab, of course...), I arrived this morning in Tabriz. It`s Friday and everything should be closed but in Tabriz, enough little shops are open and I can spend my last Rials during the afternoon. Rials are one of the currencies which become completely worthless if you leave the country. And as my hotel is cheaper than expected, I can even eat some icecreams...Again some taxi drivers wanted me to pay lots of money but I found a bus to go from the train station to the city centre and so spent only 0,02 Euro for the trip :-)
Last bye from Iran,