Reports from Iran

Last little stop in Tabriz

Hello,

after a good night in the train (this time no children, no big-luggage-people, only two old women) and even an all-inclusive-train-dinner (kebab, of course...), I arrived this morning in Tabriz. It`s Friday and everything should be closed but in Tabriz, enough little shops are open and I can spend my last Rials during the afternoon. Rials are one of the currencies which become completely worthless if you leave the country. And as my hotel is cheaper than expected, I can even eat some icecreams...Again some taxi drivers wanted me to pay lots of money but I found a bus to go from the train station to the city centre and so spent only 0,02 Euro for the trip :-)

Last bye from Iran,

Anja

7.9.07 11:36, kommentieren

Last little stop in Teheran

Hello,

I arrived well by bus in Teheran but now I am really terrible tired, the bus trip started on 4pm and finished around 8:30am... Much faster than all the train options but without a bed, it`s just impossible to sleep. And the girl next to me took my window place, so it was even harder than with the window. My night train to Tabriz leaves at 7pm, still 9 hours to be awake. But I'll just go to my favourite Teheran bakery shop and hope that their little cakes wake me up. Teheran is not cold but compared to Bushehr, weather seemed really like in paradise this morning. And although it might seem impossible to catch a cold in Busheher, I managed to get one, because there are always changes between cold air-conditioned rooms and the hot and humid outside air.

In Tabriz, I'll probably stay one night in order to take a shower ;-)

And then next morning cross the border and I'll be back in Turkey again. What`s next is not completely sure, as I am still waiting for some answers from Turkish people.

Bye,

Anja

1 Kommentar 6.9.07 08:32, kommentieren

Bushehr - letzter Stopp in Iran

short English news: I arrived in Bushehr, very very hot, cheili germe... 

Hallo,

bin gut in Bushehr angekommen gestern abend und das Aussteigen aus dem klimatisierten Bus war dann schon ein recht grosser Schock, selbst nachts hat man hier die dreissig Grad. Arash hat mich am Terminal abgeholt. Im Haus ist es dann deutlich besser, da ist alles klimatisiert und eher kuehl als warm. Heute abend haben wir den persischen Golf besichtigt, das Wasser ist so warm wir eine Badewanne. Und man kann draussen nix anderes machen als schwitzen...Selbst die Einwohner schwitzen hier. Somit sind irgendwie alle gleich und alle gleich traege weil man hier einfach nix schnelles machen kann. Ausser schnell Auto fahren, das geht ueberall in Iran. Morgen abend gucken wir nochmal das Meer an, da wir ein bisschne spaet waren fuer den Sonnenuntergang, und am Tag danach reise ich dann zurueck nach Teheran.

Viele Gruesse ins kalte deutschland (EuroNews zeigte heute mittag was von 15 Grad...), Anja

2 Kommentare 3.9.07 18:50, kommentieren

Shiraz: Pasargad und Persepolis

Hallo,

nachdem es leichte Beschwerden gab wegen der englischen Sprache, dieser Eintrag fuer Iraner nicht besonders relevant ist und ich auf deutsch auch schneller schreiben kann, gibt es dann mal wieder die deutsche Variante.

Mein Hotelier hat mich heute um 6 Uhr geweckt und ne halbe Stunde spaeter war ich unterwegs zum Busterminal, um einen Bus in Richtung Pasargadae zu suchen. Auf dem Weg hab ich mal wieder ein Taxi genommen. Vor dem Einsteigen hat der Mann, der das Taxi fuer mich gestoppt hat, extra noch gefragt, was es kostet, und der Taxifahrer zeigte einen 2000er Schein. Beim BEzahlen war es dann wieder mal anders, er wollte mir einfach mein Rueckgeld nicht geben. Ich habe ihm dann bad gesagt, bedeutet wie im englischen auch: schlecht. Daraufhin hat er doch tatsaechlich seinen Mittelfinger gehoben, eine Geste, die es hier normalerweise gar nicht gibt, und viele Leute kennen auch die Bedeutung gar nicht. Naja, Allah wird ihm dann im Paradies schon eins auf den Deckel geben.

Ich durfte dann in einem Bus mitfahren, der bis nach Teheran fuhr, und habe den Preis fuer die Strecke Shiraz-Esfahan bezahlt. Das sind 6h Bus. Ich war nur 2h drin, aber da der Preis mit 1,20 Euro wirklich nicht zu hoch ist, kann man ruhig ein Langstreckenticket nehmen. Es war ein `Mercedes`-Bus. Das sind hier die Busse sozusagen dritter Klasse. Bis nach Teheran waer das fuer mich unvorstellbar, aber fuer 2 Std. in Ordnung. Der Platz neben mir blieb dann erst mal frei, da sie keinen Mann neben mich setzen wollten, obwohl ich gesagt habe, dass ich Touristin bin und es somit kein Problem sei und sie ruhig den Platz einem Mann verkaufen duerfen. Unterwegs stiegen dann Studentinnen zu, die ueber den Platz froh waren.

Von der Hauptstrasse nach Pasargad nahm mich dann noch ein Taxi mit. In Pasargad gibt es so ca. 6 Steihaufen zu sehen. Leider ist nicht mehr viel uebrig von diesem eigentlich historisch sehr wichtigen Ort. Nachdem ich von Haufen 2 zu Haufen 3 marschierte, hielt ein auto an, mit Mann und Frau und 3 Kindern. Sie nahmen mich dann zu allen Steinhaufen mit (waren doch einige Meter, und auch morgens um 10 ist es hier warm...), und anschliessend haben sie mich quasi gleich adoptiert und in richtung Persepolis mitgenommen. Dort haben wir dann erst das Mittags-Picknick gemacht, und eigentlich wollten sie Persepolis glaub ich nicht sehen, aber dann sind wir doch alle rein. Mit dem Ergebnis, dass ich anschliessend mit nach Shiraz zurueckfahren durfte. Ich glaube, sie mussten eigentlich irgendwo ausserhalb zu einem Campinggelaende, aber sie haben mich vor die Hoteltuer gefahren und gewartet, bis ich drinnen war. Ich glaube, es wuerde iranische Vorstellungen zu sehr verletzen, mich einfach von Persepolis aus nach einer anderen Mitfahrgelegenheit umschauen zu lassen.

Persepolis bietet deutlich mehr als Pasargad, obwohl es historisch wohl deutlich unbedeutender war. Jede Menge Steinreliefs, in Stein gehauene riesige Graeber, Saeulen,..  klingt jetzt vielleicht etwas unspektakulaer aber in dem Fall war es das nicht, vielleicht zeigen das dann die Fotos besser. Wir sind in der prallen Nachmittagssonne durch Persepolis gegangen, war wirklich hart und es gibt da nicht ueberall Schatten, da die Sonne eben fast senkrecht steht. Nachdem ich Persepolis-Temperaturen ueberstanden habe, ist Bushehr vielleicht gar nicht so wild. Nachmittags geh ich da aber nicht raus :-) Kopftuch war in Persepolis echt nuetzlich, ansonsten waer ich jetzt sicher ganz rot, auf den Kopf kann man ja schlecht Creme schmieren. Wenn nach 1 Monat in der Sonne die Handruecken das einzige sind, was ein bisschen braun aussieht, ist das trotzdem irgendwie seltsam.

Vor der Abreise morgen will ich noch das Gradmal von Hafez ansehen, ein beruehmter persischer Dichter, zu dem die Iraner in Massen pilgern. Um dann dort zu picknicken. Und vielleicht noch einen Garten. Shiraz soll ja beruehmt sein fuer Gaerten, aber von der Strasse aus kommt das nicht so rueber. Manu, ich bring dann die persischen Gartengestaltungsideen mit!

Ciao, Anja

3 Kommentare 1.9.07 18:55, kommentieren

Shiraz - Friday

Hello,

Friday is holiday in Iran and there wasn`t much to do for me today. I saw all the men coming out of Shiraz biggest mosque, and there were so many soldiers to protect them, they were standing on the roof and at the entrance doors, it seemed really strange. I also took one nice photo in this mosque. At the exit, someone saw the camera in my hands, and he said no photos. But I just said ok and went outside so no I have my picture from inside an active mosque :-) most of the persons were already outside but some nice tchador-women couldn`t escape from my picture:-)

I also saw a very holy place, a pilgrimage site, with a shrine, but I forgot who lies inside the shrine. It was the first place where I had to where the tchador. I could borrow one, but it was so short that one old woman inside the courtyard showed me that my legs are outside the tchador. But inside the Shrine, the guardian women didn`t throw me out. they were all kissing the Shrine so I didn`t stay a long time inside this place.

My last `monument` today was a nice garden with a kind of palais inside. Shiraz is famous for lemon trees, and they were also standing in this garden. And whole Iran is famous for pistachios, and yesterday evening I bought my first new pistachios. They look different from those we buy in Europe. Around the pistachio, there is some kind of `skin` like walnuts have it before falling down from the trees. Of course, not such a thick skin...

Tomorrow will be very tiring day for me: I asked the hotel manager to wake me up at 6:30, then I go to the bus station and try to visit the archeological sites of Pasargadae and Persepolis by public transport. Someone told me that I shouldn`t visit Pasargadae because it is smaller then Persepolis but I think, I probably never come back here so it might be better to go to this place. It will be terrible hot because the Persepolis area is more desert than Shiraz, but today I survived the Shiraz weather so I`ll do the same tomorrow in the desert... At least I am lucky that I have not been here two weeks ago when there were another 5 degree more... My hotel room is really nice and has always the same temperature where you don`t have to sweat, and I drunk several of the fresh fruit juices you get everywhere in Iran and crushed ice-drinks, so the temperatures don`t make me feel too bad.

And I bought my bus ticket for Bushehr today, I leave here Sunday afternoon and arrive Busheher around 9pm. I think it`s better not to arrive there during daytime.

in shiraz are already some arabs on the streets, I think there will be even more in Bushehr. That changes a littlebit from the black iranian street ambiance.

As I only left my hotel around 12 today, I think I really made enough tourism for today ;-)

Bye,

Anja

1 Kommentar 31.8.07 19:34, kommentieren

Shiraz - arrival

Hello,

After a nice day in Esfahan - we were in the garden of my host family and made harvest of almonds, and lots of discussion with Raana - I took my bus to Shiraz. Shiraz is really hot, even in the evening there seems to be no difference. During the bus trip, I had a nice woman next to me. But in Shiraz, I don`t have a host, and my contact person seems to be in Teheran and therefore not available. So I took a hotel, and this time I didn`t even try to take the cheapest one but took one which smelt clean (yes, no mistake, it really smelt clean). I will stay the next three nights there.

From Shiraz bus terminal, you have to take a taxi to reach the city center. I told the driver very often that I want to have a shared taxi (which should cost around 2000 Iranian Rials) and not a private taxi (which is 10.000 Iranian Rials). But he didn`t take other passengers, and I think he was no real taxi driver because he asked other drivers where to go. At the end, he asked me the fare of a private taxi. I don`t agree with this behaviour, because I told him around fifty times during the trip `taxi naa dar baste`, no private taxi... He even phoned to someone and told that a crazy german woman alwazs says naa dar baste - I don`t speak farsi, but this was easy to understand. At the end, I paid him 5000 Rials because I had no little money. Next time, I should walk instead of taking another stupid taxi. The problem is, that, to access the interesting historical sites of Pasargadae and Persepolis, one needs some kind of taxi. Maybe I find a minibus, that`s easier than a taxi, they never charge me unusual fares... My hotel receptionist said that there are minibuses to Pasargadae from the bus terminal. But he speaks hardly English so it`s too difficult to ask me at which team they leave and how often etc. I think I am in one of the hotels that don`t have many foreign guests, it was not mentioned in the guidebooks and the hotels mentioned in the guidebook were full this afternoon. After this travel, I should write my own guidebook ;-)

Bye (from air-conditioned Internetcafe..),

 Anja

 

 

1 Kommentar 30.8.07 18:45, kommentieren

Esfahan - visa extension

Guidebooks say that Esfahan is the best place in Iran to make a visa extension. I tried it today. Because they gave me 22 day visa instead of 30 day visa, I had to make this extension.

And sorry, but when Esfahan is the easiest place, how are the other one`s... For me, it was just a terrible thing, going from one person to another, going to a bank to pay the money, going back to the visa office and again from one person to another, finally hand out the lady Hosseini all documents and hear `wait`. Then you sit and wait and sit and wait. Tomorrow is the big holiday, and people told me that the office will close today already at 12. So 5 to 12, I went to Miss Hosseini and ask if the passport is ready. Very unfriendly answer was only I told you to wait outside. Finally, after in total 3 hours, I got my passport with the extension back. It`s just a stamp in the passport...Sorry LonelyPlanet, but visa extension in Esfahan is definitely no fun!

My plan was to visit the Jameh Mosque today, Irans biggest mosque, but as shops are closed tomorrow I should also do some shopping and maybe then I don`t have time for this mosque any more.

I got my bus ticket for Shiraz. I take a bus Thursday morning and arrive there in the evening.  And as Friday is again holiday (like our Sunday), maybe you should wait several days for news from Iran.

Sunday I want to take the bus Shiraz/Bushehr, and then on Wednesday 05.09. I have a train ticket from ahvaz which is not too far away from Bushehr to Teheran, and on Thursday a train ticket for the night train Teheran/Tabriz. Friday 07 september I think taking a bus from Tabiz to Orumyeh and next day Orumyeh to Van in Turkey. Or I go the same way wack to Van as I came, which means via Bazargan. Finally, it just depends on available bus tickets...So now, you are informed about the newest timetables.

Bye, Anja

 

1 Kommentar 28.8.07 13:23, kommentieren